Day 16 – Little Rock to Memphis – 04-13-09

Yesterday, the sky dropped over 1.5 inches of rain on Little Rock, and more in rural areas of Arkansas. So, I didn’t know if I’d have to stay another day.

When I awoke at 6:30 this morning, the sky was still gloomy and looked to be threatening some more rain . I decided I’d see how the day progressed, since I had the room until noon before having to check out or pay for another night.

I made some coffee, and tried to get online to check the forecast, but the WIFI connection would cut me off within seconds.  So, I turned on The Fear Channel (aka The Weather Channel) and there was a lot of coverage from north Florida and Georgia. I sipped my coffee, and about an hour later headed to the lobby for the continental breakfast.

It was the same as yesterday, but I asked them to just hold the meat. The fellow at the counter said he’d put some extra eggs on my plate. I fixed another cup of coffee, and chatted with the female attendant for a few minutes. She was originally from Michigan, but ended up moving to Little Rock years ago with her husband, and now works at the Howard Johnson.

I ate my food, and went back to my room, unsure of what the day would bring. I laid around and watched T.V. for a few hours and kept looking out the window to see if there was more rain coming. The sky still looked cloudy, but there were patches of sun here and there. Then, around 9:30 a.m. it started drizzling again, and stayed like that for over an hour. After watching The Price Is Right, the local news came on at 11 a.m. The weather forecast said the worst had passed us, and it should start clearing up rapidly. I looked outside, and while it was still gray skies, it had stopped raining, and appeared to be done.

I decided I would leave Little Rock, and began to pack up, taking as long as I could, in case of another rain shower.

I brought the bike out from it’s cover, and loaded up my bags. I decided I’d make it a short ride, and just go to Memphis, TN 140 miles east. Since it might rain, and the roads were still wet, I put on my rain gear, over my leathers. I checked out at noon, and hit the I-40 for the last time on this trip!

The freeway in Little Rock was busy and made me uncomfortable, given the slickness of the road surface, so I took it easy for awhile. I was keeping pace with the flow of traffic, until I was about 20 miles away, then made my move to pass a row of big rigs.

There were tons of semis on the highway today, and as I rode, I felt uneasy. I worried about the weather, the wetness of the road, and the condition of my bike. But I pressed on.

About 45 miles east of Little Rock, I saw a “Rest Area 1 Mile” sign, and decided I’d take a short break. But as I approached the exit, a “Closed” sign blocked my path. Another two miles down the road, I took another exit and had a quick smoke and drank some water.

I pulled off again about 40 miles down the freeway for a gas stop and bathroom break, but got going again, and didn’t stop until I reached Memphis.

Crossing over the Mississippi River was quite a thrill, and on the bridge I noticed the “Welcome to Tennessee” sign. Given where I was, there was nowhere to pull over and get the picture.

I felt relieved to be in Memphis, and quickly found a hotel to drop off my stuff and go explore the city.

Wow! Riding without the extra weight, I thought I was in heaven! But then I looked around and realized it was just Graceland!

That one’s for you, Dad!

People here in Memphis, like in most cities, drive like idiots, and it keeps you on your toes to avoid getting slammed into.

I rode around some other areas of South Memphis, but they were’nt the types of neighborhoods you want to pull over in and bust out a digital camera. Memphis is quite run down in some parts, and the roads are pretty trashed. Other than the plethora of Baptist churches everywhere, it reminded me of some areas in North Philadelphia.

Eventually, I made my way to the water’s edge to see the Mississippi River up close.

After a few moments at the waterfront, I headed over to the National Civil Rights Museum. As I photographed my bike, I was approached by a fellow named D’Angelo, who asked if I wanted to have him take my picture. At first, I wasn’t sure about handing this guy my camera, but he seemed safe, so I did.

He gave back my camera, and told me he was from Nashville and came to Memphis looking for work, and needed some money so he and his wife could get a room for the night. I thanked him for the picture, and handed over a buck for his hotel fund.

I made my way down to the Museum, which used to be the Lorraine Hotel where Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was gunned down over 41 years. As I got closer, I saw a woman sitting with some banners, one of which read, “Boycott the National Civil Rights Museum.”

I walked over and asked her why she was urging a boycott. Her name is Jaqueline Smith, and she said Dr. King’s message was being desecrated by this museum. She’d rather see this old hotel used for housing, or a job training site, or a medical clinic, instead of a tourist attraction. Jaqueline said she also opposes the gentrification of the neighborhood, where expensive condos have been built. She would like it to be kept affordable, so that the people of the community were not priced out. I thanked her for her time, and she mentioned a website with more info.

I went down to get a closer look of the spot where King was killed.

I contemplated going into the museum, but when I saw it was $12 for entry, I scoffed, and decided to honor the boycott.

From here, I headed over to Beale St. for some food. For a moment on Beale St. I thought I was back in Santa Cruz, because I got hit up every five feet for spare change!

Damn, there were so many Soul Food restaurants! They all serve ribs, and chicken, and catfish and pork! It’s times like this that I wish I ate meat!

I found a cool little place called Miss Molly’s Soul City Cafe and had the only thing on their menu I could eat, Mac and Cheese, with (damn good) cornbread, and coleslaw, and a grilled cheese sandwich with crab fries (French Fries with Old Bay Seasoning).

While I ate, I noticed the T.V. was on, and got the bad news that Hall of Fame Phillies baseball broadcaster, Harry Kalas had passed away at age 73 today. I exclaimed my sadness out loud, and the waitress, Sarah, asked me what was wrong. I told her I was sad to hear of Kalas’ death, and mentioned I got to listen to him call the World Series last year on the radio. She asked where I’m from and I said, “Philly.” Turns out, she grew up in Chestnut Hill, and moved to Memphis in college. We talked a bit about my trip, and life in Philly, then I paid the bill and bid her farewell.

Well, I’m back in my room, and getting some shut eye soon. I’ve got a long day ahead tomorrow, to try and get to Knoxville, over 400 miles away. I’m really looking forward to riding some mountain roads here in Tennessee, and just hope the forecast for nice weather holds up.